Sometimes I feel like surfing somehow takes me away from the real world. Without realizing my days pass from the water and I get home and I have not been able to relate to anyone! It is not that it is lonely, but that surfing as such has something that makes you isolate yourself from everything else. It’s a feeling that I love and one of the things I was hooked on from day one. I’m just focused on my next wave and what I want to do on it. Nothing else matters at that time.
That is why I have met with Oscar Valencia to record my day to day after confinement and try to reflect from a closeness what a normal day is like for me. Also showing the places I usually go and telling in more detail the tables that I use regularly. In addition, I have been lucky to find very good waves that are interspersed in the video. Basically this is me and this is what I do!
This is an original piece from Mar Gruesa.